From Quito I headed south for Riobamba, intentionally passing Banos. Everyone I talked to described Banos as a mass of tourists. Hot springs sounded good, but I gave them up after too many disappointments in Canada. I think my concept of hot temperature and hot food are just different than of most people. My prior life in Japan forever altered my tolerance for all things hot.

Upon leaving Quito I was not in the best of moods. On top of this I managed to take a wrong turn where all I had to do was follow the Panamerican Highway south. I finally pulled over and these people came over to help and just gave me a big road and tourism atlas. I really didn´t want to take it because it looked expensive and heavy, but they insisted they had another one.

Then further south I pulled over for lunch when I saw a lot of trucks parked on the side of the road. As sure a sign as anything of good food. The place didn´t look like much from the outside but it was very popular for its sheep meat. I had sheep and some type of corn. Everyone came over to talk to me and a group of bikers came over as well. The were Harley riders so, of course, they were not actually out for a ride, but just liked to tell people they own a Harley. Across from me was a man with his young daughter who had his daughter help me every time I needed something. Napkins, go get him some napkins, soda, go get him a Coke, more meat, go order him some meat.

Then outside it was another round of questions. I told this elderly woman I rode the bike from New York so I must be ´loco´ and she and her kids couldn´t stop laughing.

I managed to stay on the Panamerican until Riobamba where I arrived to a city without electricity nor water which explained all nonfunctioning traffic lights which made riding through the city exciting.

I did get a warm welcome, however, and electricity was back on that evening.

The town wasn`t much to look at but it had some lively markets.

The reason I stopped in Riobamba was to ride the Devil´s Nose train. It was a major hassle to buy the tickets. I heard lots of stories from people on the ticket line. The train only runs on Wednesdays and Sundays and even then they do not tell you if the train will actually be running. You have to wait in line the day before not knowing if the train will be actually running or if they big train will be going. If they big train doesn’t go then a smaller ¨bus¨ train runs but it only carries 40 people.

It was a nice ride but they no longer permit people to sit on top of the train which took a lot of fun out of the ride and also made it harder to get good views.

The train is the last remaining running train in all of Ecuador. It is famous for its double V switchbacks. The train comes down on way then doubles back at the apex down the downhill side of the V. The track out the window is where the train just came down and we are now on the lower V track. There are two of these used to get the train down and up the mountain side.

Then at the bottom of the valley the detach the motorcar and manually push the other cars behind the motorcar.

Back in town, I was sad, but not surprised, to see antisemites even here where there are no Jews.